Lunchtime and Learning
November 1998 -- Cover Story Part 4

By: Joan Murray, R. D.
Contributing Editor

  As a nation, "we must stop deep-fat frying the health of our children."  With those words, then-Secretary of Agriculture Mike Epsy more than five years ago ushered in a new era of school lunches. Epsy no longer holds that position, but his statement, made during a press conference announcing the release of a USDA school-lunch study, still reverberates today when it comes to government approaches to feeding children during the midday hour. The study found that most school lunches were high in fat (38% of calories), sodium, cholesterol and sugar and that they were low in high-fiber foods.  The ball soon started rolling regarding major reforms. Most notably, school lunches would have to conform to the U.S. Dietary Guidelines over the course of the school week.  In essence, school foodservice directors found they were no longer serving specific foods, but nutrients. The question foodservice directors face is how to improve the diet of the school-lunch participants - who also are sophisticated consumers - within a very tight budget.Pressure cooker  School lunch program participants are reimbursed a set amount per student, depending on income-eligibility factors. In the 1998-1999 school year, schools will be reimbursed $1.9425 for each free lunch, $1.5425 for each reduced-price lunch, and $0.18 for each full-price lunch. In addition, schools receive $0.1475 in commodities for each lunch served. On average, schools will be reimbursed close to $1.70 per lunch served.  Typically, labor cost is approximately 1/3 the menu price. Food generally accounts for a little more than 1/3 the price, with administrative, facilities and federally required labor benefits accounting for the remainder. Districts that underwrite the facilities and maintenance costs are able to put more money into other areas, such as food and staff training.  One option for a school foodservice operator to make changes to meet the Dietary Guidelines is to use more low-fat, low-sodium foods. However, many find that low-fat, low-sodium foods cost more. One reason is that sodium chloride and fat are flavor carriers and other flavoring ingredients are initially more expensive and often must be used in greater quantities to make up for the lower-fat and lower-sodium thresholds. In addition, to improve flavor, low-fat foods often have a higher sodium content than their higher-fat counterparts and low-sodium foods tend to have higher fat than their higher-sodium counterparts.  Lastly, school districts must adhere to a myriad of regulations to receive federal monies. Many foodservice directors contend they must hire at least one full-time person to ensure the operation is in full compliance. If the paperwork is less-than-perfect, the school system stands to lose significant benefits.  "I operate a self-supporting business," says Penny McConnell, foodservice director, Fairfax County Schools, Virginia. If some of the reporting requirements were less intensive, McConnell contends more money would be available to buy some of the low-sodium, low-fat foods.Changing regulations  Since 1995, the federal regulations have been changed. To many, they are more complex, further complicating compliance. Each school district has a choice in meeting the Dietary Guidelines and is allowed to choose any of the following:

The Traditional Meal Plan, also known as Type A Lunch, requires serving specific foods (components) and minimum serving sizes. The foodservice operator must serve 2 oz. of meat/meat alternative; two or more fruits and/or vegetables; whole-grain or enriched bread or bread alternative; and milk.
Enhanced Food-Based System is an option that retains the structure of the meal pattern, allowing a balance between meat and meat alternatives with lower-fat foods from the grain/bread and fruits/vegetable components.
Nutrient Standard Menu Planning doesn't impose specific components or quantity requirements; it just requires meeting the targeted nutrients over a one-week span. The school foodservice director is required to serve an entree, milk and at least one other menu item.
Assisted Nutrient Standard Menu Planning analyzes the meal-service and menu-development cycles, recipes, procurement and preparation methods to meet the nutritional standards.
Any Reasonable Approach allows foodservice directors to develop any other method in which the meals served still meet Dietary Guidelines objectives.Commodities  Commodity foods are those purchased by USDA specifically for federal feeding programs. More than 60 foods are purchased in the program, including fresh, canned and frozen fruits and vegetables; meats; fruit juices; vegetable shortening; peanut products; vegetable oil; and flour and other grain products. Until 1996, commodity foods didn't include lower-fat or lower-sodium products.  In addition, the government offers bonus commodities, which are surplus foods - the availability and amount depends on market surpluses. USDA purchases these to stabilize the market. It is conceivable that a bonus food could be butter, especially if there isn't much demand for it on the open market.  Bonus commodities can be tied to the amount of commodity foods offered. A school foodservice director turning down the bonus food might face a reduction in normal commodity foods. As a result, many foodservice directors accept the bonus commodities and look for ways to use the foods within the dietary regulations.Dollars and sense  Why should the food industry look at developing foods for school lunch programs? For starters, the size of the program is enormous. The federal government will spend $4.2 billion in fiscal year 1998.  "If school lunch were among the Fortune 500, it would rank in the top 20," says Shirley Watkins, USDA's undersecretary for Food, Nutrition and Consumer Services.  Children are forming habits, many of which are life-long. Foods children enjoy also will be favorites when they grow up: the most popular food among children is pizza, and adults rank it among their top 10 favorite foods as well.  For some, capturing this young market ensures life of the product well into the next century. As an example, Pizza Hut Inc., Dallas, was asked to develop product for schools to fit their needs. "The Pizza Hut Pizza Pack contains all the ingredients and small wares needed to make thin-crust pizza (a favorite of kids)," says Pizza Hut spokesman Jay Allison. "The schools can make as much as they want, as often as they want. The Pizza Pack uses lowfat mozzarella, and conforms to the U.S. Dietary Guidelines."  Other manufacturers, such as Frito Lay Inc., Plano, TX, are examining existing product lines to see which, if any, fit school foodservice needs. One existing product sold to schools is salsa in 1/8 cup portions.  "It's hard to make products specifically for schools," says Robert Brown, Ph.D., R.D., director of nutrition at Frito Lay. "The reimbursement is so low, many (manufacturers) can't afford to do more than repackage an item (in a serving size compatible with school lunch)."  Many manufacturers sell products at not much over cost to the school foodservice programs. These same manufacturers are selling innovative foods in other markets where they can recover R&D costs.  Some manufacturers are willing to develop products for school foodservice. They're interested in working with food contractors because these companies often have the critical mass volume needed for a cost-effective production run.  However, many school districts are reluctant to hire out foodservice management, mainly due to tradition. Food contractors also have come under fire from the General Accounting Office for not sufficiently fulfilling their obligations. A 1996 GAO report, School Lunch Program: Role and Impact of Private Foodservice Companies, caused many school districts to pause and further ponder their decisions. Among its findings, the report stated that many variations existed in the contracts to run the program, and that participants tended not to comply with USDA requirements.  Some food contractors and foodservice directors are taking existing products and preparing them slightly differently so that the food meets the Dietary Guidelines. French fries have been replaced on some menus with potato wedges. The wedges, though traditionally fried, are instead baked and kids are eating them, says Howard Watson, president, Aramark School Support Services, Philadelphia. Still others are using fruit purees in baked goods to lower product fat content.Give it a boost  The nutrient-based menu plans opened the doors for foodservice directors to consider fortified foods. A foodservice director could meet the calcium requirements by serving a calcium-enriched bread or juice product. Both products are comparable in price to their nonfortified brethren.  One problem with fortified foods, says Watkins, is that consumers might not recognize the difference between the two. "A number of years ago," she explains, "I was involved with a breakfast program in which all the nutrients were included in a sweet, gooey product that looked like a Twinkie. The image given to the children, who didn't know the difference, was that it was OK to eat a Twinkie with milk for breakfast.  "What are we teaching our children (with these foods)?" Watkins asks. "We have to be guarded with some of the things that are coming out. We do need to work closely with the manufacturers so we don't give out the wrong message."  Some states, such as California, have developed criteria for using fortified foods.  Nutrients added to foods can be counted only if: a standard of identity or standard of enrichment is issued by FDA for the food items;
a USDA purchase specification for a donated commodity food exists;
a standard for an Alternative Food for Meals, excluding formulated grain/fruit products exists; or
A breakfast cereal available on the commercial (consumer) market exists.
  If a food, such as frozen peaches, is treated with ascorbic acid to prevent browning, the foodservice director cannot count the ascorbic acid towards the vitamin C requirement.Clean your plate  While the subject of more healthful foods is getting a lot of attention from adults, the ultimate consumer - the child - is not necessarily being included in the discussion.  A 1995 Gallup study conducted for the International Food Information Council, the American Dietetic Association, and the President's Council on Physical Fitness found that most children report healthful foods don't taste very good. They are inclined not to eat these foods because of this perception. "They are quick to say: 'Yuk. It's nasty,' " Watkins says.  Most children are very savvy and sophisticated consumers by the time they reach age 6, says James McNeal, Ph.D., professor of marketing, Texas A&M University, College Station.  Successfully marketing to a group is based on a basic principle - giving the consumer what he wants. "The developer needs to ask: 'What needs will I have to satisfy?' " McNeal says.  In school feeding programs, at least two sets of needs exist - those of the children and those of the provider. Those needs may the same or similar, but they also can be very different.  Children want or need to play and have fun, McNeal says. They also want their senses - taste, feel, smell - satisfied. In the school feeding situation, children want the food to be fun, while the school feeder wants it to be healthful. These needs can be met simultaneously, says McNeal.  The product must be attractive, and color is important. It also needs to stimulate the senses. Extreme flavors, such as very sour or very zesty, are acceptable as well.  Kids also want simple foods. In revamping the school-lunch program, USDA reportedly spent $500,000 developing recipes for upscale, gourmet foods that were low-fat. The foods developed included rice pilaf with lentils, beans and chick peas, vegetable lasagna, grated carrot salad with orange and mint, and ham and cheese buns with Dijon mustard. The children soundly rejected the foods, because they were unfamiliar and weren't simple. Instead, the kids want chicken nuggets, thin-crust pizza, hot dogs and hamburgers.  These upscale foods might have been too far off the mark for what the population had experienced. For instance, many children eat spaghetti. They also will try and eat ravioli. Ravioli and spaghetti have a number of similarities - they're both made with noodles and sauce.  The brain has recall of food, says Steven Witherly, director, Ph.D., R&D, Nutrilite Corporation, Valencia, CA. The brain memorizes color, smell and taste along with protein, calories, fat, vitamins and minerals. A profile change of a food of greater than 30% of an existing food in the brain's database will signal the food is different, Witherly says. If the brain can't reconcile the differences, the food faces the risk of being rejected. If the food is similar to one in the brain's data bank, it stands a good chance of being accepted.  The key, then, is developing food that is different, but not so different that the consumer cannot relate to it.1995 Dietary Guidelines
• Balance the food you eat with physical activity - maintain or improve your weight.
• Choose a diet with plenty of grain products, vegetables and fruits.
• Select a diet low in fat, saturated fat and cholesterol.
• Eat a variety of foods.
• Choose a diet moderate in salt and sodium.
• Consume a diet moderate in sugars.
• Those drinking alcoholic beverages should do so in moderation.

Educational Eating Minimum Requirements for Nutrient Levels for School Lunches Nutrient Analysis Alternatives (Week Averages) Pre-schoolGrades K6Grades 7-12Calories517664825Total fat (percentage of calories)30% 30%30%Total saturated fat (percentage of calories)10%less than 10%less than 10%RDA for protein (in grams)71016RDA for calcium (in milligrams)267286400RDA for iron (in milligrams)3.33.54.5RDA for vitamin A (retinol equivalence) 150224300RDA for vitamin C (in milligrams)141518  Joan Murray is president and CEO of Murray Enterprises, Arlington, VA, a foodservice consulting firm specializing in nutrition and menu development. Murray also is a contributing editor to Foodservice Director magazine, covering new foods, food safety and emerging technologies.Cover Story Pt - 5 - Staking Foodservice Nutrition ClaimsBack to top