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Natural Cosmetics: Focus on Food Ingredients


by Rachel Adams -

In response to the ongoing quest for natural, food ingredients are making their way into personal care products.

The growing use of food ingredients in personal care products will be the focus of the Natural Cosmetics Masterclass, organized by Ecovia Intelligence, on Feb. 1, in San Francisco. Although there are many business opportunities with “food based" cosmetics, there remain technical hurdles when using edible raw materials. Some of these hurdles, such as marketing and technical issues of using food grade materials in product formulations, will be discussed during the masterclass.

Additional content covered during the masterclass includes an update on the global market for natural and organic personal care products, an update on leading standards for natural and organic personal care products, and discussion of the new ISO 160128 standard for natural & organic cosmetics and ingredients, as well as an update on COSMOS and NaTrue standards. Other seminars will cover novel food ingredients, marketing food-based cosmetics and retailing case study.

According to Ecovia Intelligence, many natural personal care brands are developing ranges based on key food ingredients, such as pomegranate, cocoa, coffee, green tea and olive oil. Such ingredients add antioxidants, vitamins and minerals to product formulations. However, their use raises concerns about product stability, safety and performance, which is a common challenge associated with formulation of natural cosmetics and personal care products.

This food-focused trend has been seen in ingredient launches, as well.

Naturex announced in September an extension of its “Beauty Food" range of skin care solutions made with ingredients derived from plants found in the food chain. The new “Energy Boost" collection comprises two concepts formulated with cornelian and acerola cherry extracts: cornelian cherry (Cornus officinalis Sieb. et Zucc) and acerola cherry (Malpighia glabra L.).

Cornelian cherry is an antioxidant-rich fruit used in traditional Chinese medicine. In vitro studies have shown that it stimulates by +710 percent the production of catalase, an enzyme that protects the skin from oxidative damage. It also stimulates by +120 percent the production of glutathione reductase, an enzyme that is key to maintaining the oxidative balance of the cells. Cornelian cherry has also been shown inhibit lipid peroxidation by -40 percent.

Acerola cherry is well known for its high vitamin C content and antioxidant power. Sourced in Brazil through a highly sustainable supply chain, Naturex’s acerola powder extract has been shown to have 26 times more antioxidant activity than orange.

Data from Mintel supports the use of these “beauty foods" in new product launches, showing product launches containing cornelian and acerola cherry rose significantly between 2012 and 2016, by 183 percent in the case of cornelian cherry and 36 percent in the case of acerola.

Earlier this year, Clariant introduced a surfactant based on 100 percent renewable sunflower oil—GlucoPure® Sense—for use in hand dishwashing liquid (HDWL) detergents.

GlucoPure Sense supports HDWL experts in addressing challenges such as irritant labelling, non-tropical ingredient sourcing and achieving comparable performance to traditional surfactants. Additionaly, the renewable surfactant offers a high renewable carbon index (RCI) of more than 96 percent, consisting of 100 percent renewable sunflower oil and 100 percent renewable glucose. It has active matter of between 50 to 55 percent Oleyl Glucamide.

In terms of sensory, GlucoPure Sense adds a soft, moisturized skin feel to formulations. In blind testing, a sensory panel reported improved and pleasant after-feel compared to an existing market product, as well as an easier to rinse foam.

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